Makes 2 baking trays’ worth of gougeres
220ml water
85g butter, cubed
110g refined spelt flour
¾ tsp sea salt
½ tsp grated nutmeg
¼ tsp cayenne pepper
¼ tsp white pepper
A sprig of thyme or oregano (or other herb of choice), leaves plucked off
3 medium eggs, lightly beaten
150g finely grated Jarlsberg reserve cheese
Preheat the oven to 200 degrees Celsius.
Line a large baking tray or two smaller trays with silicone paper or baking parchment.
In a small saucepan bring the water and butter to the boil over a medium heat, making sure that the butter melts completely before the water starts to boil.
While the water is warming up, sift the flour, sea salt and spices (but not the herbs) three times either into a bowl or on a sheet of parchment paper. This aerates the flour and (supposedly) makes the choux pastry lighter, although that could just be baker’s superstition!
Add the herbs and stir through to distribute them in the dry ingredients, and then once the water and butter mixture is boiling, tip the spiced flour straight into the saucepan and immediately turn off the heat. Vigorously stir the mixture with a wooden spoon for 20 seconds until it looks thick, gloopy and comes away from the sides of the saucepan.
Spread this mixture onto a flat plate and allow to cool for 10-15 minutes or until it’s at room temperature. Place the cooled mixture back in the same saucepan and add the beaten egg a little at a time, making sure that you stir the mixture well as you incorporate the egg and that it’s completely mixed in before you add more egg. Add as much egg as you need (you may need all of it or just ¾ of it) until the mixture reaches a smooth dropping consistency. Add the cheese at this point and stir through again. If choux pastry is too runny or too thick the little buns won’t rise properly in the oven. The mixture should just reluctantly drop from a spoon, within a second or two.
Use two teaspoons to scoop little balls of mixture on to the baking sheet(s) and make sure you leave around 3-5cm between each of them. Dip a spoon in water and smooth out any rough edges on the choux balls as sharp spikes of mixture can sometimes scorch while baking in the oven.
Bake on the top shelf of the oven for 15-20 minutes, making sure not to open the oven door for at least 10-12 minutes otherwise you risk ending up with collapsed cheese gougers. When they look puffed up and golden-pale brown and feel light when you lift them up remove the gougeres from the oven and if they have any uncooked mixture on the inside, simply scoop out the excess dough and discard. You can pop them back in a cooler oven (150 C) with some extra grated Jarlsberg on top of each gougere if you wish.
Serve while warm, with a glass of wine or beer. They’re also delicious with a glass of festive champagne.